Copyright © 2011 Pakistan Youth Outreach All rights reserved.
Pakistan Youth Outreach
A Youth Mountaineering Education Program
Project Update -
In less than one year, Pakistan Youth Outreach has organized three expeditions as well as a training camp for boys and girls, all in the Shimshal/Mulungutti area. Pakistan Youth Outreach’s purpose and aim is to educate youth about mountaineering and the outdoors, to promote women’s adventure, and to explore the great adventure areas of Pakistan.
After two previous, successful expeditions by Pakistan Youth Outreach, the third
expedition was named the “Gender Equality Expedition” and the expedition was to an
unclimbed, unnamed peak in the Karakorum, Gojerave area of Shimshal, Gilgit-
Samina Baig, the rising female mountaineer of Pakistan marked her third 6000m peak in less than one year. Samina was the main focus of the expedition. She hopes to promote and inspire other females and to give a message that Pakistani females are as talented and strong as others. She hopes in the future to climb higher mountains and work for the cause and promote Pakistan Youth Outreach with her brother Mirza Ali. The main goal of the expedition team and the forthcoming documentary was not just a virgin summit. Samina hopes to inspire all women of Pakistan and around the world to be active participants in all fields of society. She says, “It is my intention to motivate more women to participate as this will give a message of confidence to females everywhere that if a young woman can climb a mountain, she can do anything.” The expedition was to highlight gender equality and to welcome all women in the extreme sports in Pakistan. Further, being part of Pakistan Youth Outreach, she wants to encourage more women in Pakistan to become involved in extreme sports and to represent Pakistan and its potential adventure areas, and also to support and encourage youth to explore Pakistan and its amazing mountains. The project was also to bring to the world the unique and rich culture of Shimshal, the most remote frontier village in Pakistan. Samina climbed Chashkin Sar, 6400m, in August 2010 and then became the first Pakistani woman to go on a winter expedition in December 2010. She retreated only 150m short of the summit of Mingligh Sar. She was unable to reach the summit due to hard and bad weather and insufficient equipment for the conditions.
The Gender Equality Expedition started on June 19, 2011. The team consisted of Samina
Baig, 20, Pakistani female mountaineer, Malgosia Skowronska (Poland), climb leader,
Mr. Chris Nettekoven (Germany), climber & photographer, Jens Franke (Germany), climber,
Mirza Ali (Pakistan), Expedition leader, and Arshad Karim (Pakistan), climber.
According to the plan to climb the unclimbed, unnamed peak in the Gojerave area,
the expedition kicked after all required purchases and documentation with the Minister
of Tourism were taken care of. The team hired 13 porters and two cooks. After a
two day trek, the team reached Boisum Pass, 5090m, and then proceeded to Perchod
Washk where it was decided to continue further down since acclimatization was the
issue. The team was happy to meet shepherds at Mindikishlagh. The shepherds welcomed
the team and served them with local food and tea. In the evening, the team bought
a big goat and decided to go back to Perchod Washk and put set up base camp. After
lunch the next day, the religious man, Mr. Karim offere
d prayers over the goat for
purification and also good wishes for the climb; the porters also participated in
the prayers. Later the goat meat was distributed among the porters and also some
to the kitchen of the expedition. In the evening, the porters arranged a singing
session and invited the team. It was a fun time but was also short. The porters
said good bye the next morning since the team had to stay for a week at the base
camp for acclimatization and then the final climb. Everyone was feeling great.
On 23 June, after breakfast, the team left for high camp for more acclimatization.
It was new to explore the path to high camp, along the gorge, rocky and then icy
portions finally led the team to high camp. Samina Baig reached high camp first
and piled stones on each other there. The other team members reached one after another
and deposited the equipment and food at high camp. They then returned to base camp.
It was a great acclimatization day and everyone was feeling great but were feeling
tired due to the altitude. The high ca
mp was shown as 5200m on Mr. Franke’s GPS.
Upon arrival back at base camp, Jaffar the chef had very good fried meat ready. It was delicious and everyone enjoyed. After a nap, the team met at dinner and decided that a few still did not feel fully acclimated and wanted another acclimatization day to high camp. The time was set for 10:00 AM. Everyone packed up the next morning and left for high camp. Jens and Samina later dropped out and stayed at base camp with some small exercise and walks around the camp. Chris, Malgosia, and Mirza went up half way and then Chris returned. Malgosia and Mirza went further, closer to high camp and then returned to base camp.
On 25 June, the team, ready and everyone feeling superb and positive, left at 9 AM
for high camp. Dilbar Khan and Arif Baig were the porters to carry the tents and
remaining food item
s. The team set up the camp site, leveled the ground and put
up three tents. This was the first time to have set up a high camp on this virgin
peak. After lunch, the porters left for base camp. The team had some chats and a
little nap and then at 4:00 PM, Mirza and Arshad went for additional acclimatization
at the ice arena whose altitude was almost 5500m. The snow was very deep and soft.
They reached almost to the top but the snow was very soft and avalanche danger was
a big concern so Mirza returned after reaching just 4m short of the summit. It was
all deep snow and they just slid all the way down to high camp.
The gloves and clothes were all dripping wet because of the heat and the soft snow. Luckily they did not have to deal with any avalanches!
In the evening, dinner was prepared and some food items were distributed for breakfast. The temperature was not so cold. Malgosia and Samina were served so Jens and Chris prepared their food. The team held a meeting about the next morning for the summit push and it was agreed to start at 2:30 AM.
The night brought perfect weather, the sky clear and full of stars. The night temperature was not so cold and everyone slept well. In the early morning at 2:20 AM, noise was heard from Jens and Chris. Arshad also woke up and started with breakfast for two tents’ members. The breakfast was ready and Malgosia was ready with her climbing outfit and entered the tent for her meal. Hot dogs, cookies, jam, bread, honey, and peanut butter were served to feed the climbers and also soup to give the best possible energy for the climb. The previous evening, it was agreed that since the route is unexplored, the team would be roped up on two different ropes. Mirza, Malgosia and Samina on one rope and Arshad, Chris, and Jens on the other.
Time at the camp was running out. Samina and all dressed appropriately and the climb
started. At the foot of the mountain the team agreed to put on the safety ropes
on the first ridge. Everyone started alpine style. The time was noted at the foot
of the mountain that it was 4:00 AM. Though it seemed pretty 
late, the snow was
good and firm; the first portion of the ridge was nice.
Jens was behind handling filming and photography, the other five were moving together.
Jens then passed everyone and started climbing on his own as was Arshad and Chris.
When the ridge got steep and there was less snow and more ice, Mirza roped up with
Samina and Malgosia. At the beginning of the steep portion to the shoulder, the
team stopped for a rest and to drink energy drink and to eat cookies and Snickers
bars. Also at this stop, some photography was done. The mountains of the surrounding
area were getting lower as the climbers were going higher. After drinks and some
cookies, Chris and Arshasd also roped up with Mirza’s team. The pace was nice, the
team was going fine, and the sun touched the face of the mountain since the team
was climbing on the sun facing side, the east ridge. Jens was pretty fast and left
the team behind doing a solo climb. The second steep portion was hard and nearer
to the shoulder the snow was softening. The higher the team went, the softer the
snow became. The climb became quite difficult in the soft, deep snow. The middle
portion of the steep portion was overcome gracefully and then the team t
ook a short
break for some rest and photography.
As the team climbed higher, the views became more amazing and exciting. Getting to see huge mountains like Dastagir Sar, Kanjut Sar, Kunyangchish, Yukshingarden, all 7000m plus peaks, was breath taking. The joy came to its highest point when the climbers saw K2 from the peak. It was standing tall at a long distance but with a very clear view of the summit pyramid.
Jens has gone way too far and behind the scene while the rest of the team was going
slow but with a good pace. The snow was getting deeper and softer. At the second
middle portion, the team encountered a crevasse which was pretty deep. Chris fall
in to the crevasse but managed to get out quickly. After the third portion of the
steep part, there is a point where the summit was very clear and visible. Jens was
near the summit, only 20 to 22m short of it which was the most dangerous part. The
team stopped for a while for photography and water. Jens was a little angry and
shouted that the snow is getting softer and better leave the photography for later.
It was not sure if the final steep and dangerous part was possible to overcome.
Jens below the summit, was sitting on a rocky part. Mirza moved to Jens and then
decided to fix a belay point to belay one person that way and fix a rope to the
summit. The summit had overhanging seracs and a very sharp edge to the top. Both
sides appeared to have big avalanche possibilities. All the members moved to the
rock part and Mirza Ali fixed the belay point and Malgosia wanted to belay him. This
section of the mountain was the hardest because of the soft and overhanging seracs.
Mirza placed ice screws for the belay point. At one point, the team below the summit
at the plateau thought they might not get to the top and return from the plateau.
However, Mirza
led the section and fixed the rope to the top. Mirza cut the overhang
with hammers and made a path to the summit. The summit was very dangerous, not a
proper place to stand. Three directions had overhangs, the north, west, and east
sides. A minor mistake could have caused a disaster. After Mirza finished with fixing
the rope, Samina marched her way to the top by jumaring and then followed by Chris,
Arshad and Jens. Malgosia was at the belay point so she came last after Arshad went
to replace her. The joy of the summit was amazing and the team took lots of photographs.
The members started to go down quickly as the snow was getting soft and giving a
hard time. According to Chris, Fredrik Sträng said this year is the warmest temperatures
in the Karakorum in the last 20 years. These temperatures made the snow soft and
snow bridges over the crevasses broke and caused the team a hard time climbing. At
one point, Mirza fell in a crevasse with one leg and the rope was helpful to pull
him out. At some points, the snow was waist deep. The team had a safe descent until
Samina slipped on a steep slope. Malgosia was in front of her and was quick with
her ice axe to help control and stop the fall. Later, it was noticed that Arshad
had unroped and glissaded down to high camp on his own and left the rope. During
the descent of the last portion of the slope, Mirza’s left foot stuck in the deep,
soft snow. It was so bad, almost to break the leg but Malgosia performed another
good feat and removed the snow and was able to release his leg. A few minute
s later,
Chris fell in to a crevasse; a soft snow bridge did not hold and he went 3 to 4m
in the crevasse. Malgosia and Samina were behind Chris and Mirza at the side holding
him. Malgosia and Samina did well to control Chris from going further deep in the
crevasse. The fall happened near the foot of the mountain, only about fifteen minutes
from high camp. The snow was soft however Malgosia and Samina were able to hold
Chris firmly. The porters had just arrived at camp so Malgosia and Samina shouted
and called for help. Dilbar, Arif, and Arshad came with a new rope and Chris was
rescued after about fifteen minutes. Luckily there were no injuries. After rescuing
Chris, the team was so relaxed and thanked God for the safe ending. At high camp
every one greeted and Chris announced sheep to sacrifice! The porters had some nice
food for the climbers: tea and lunch, and then packed to leave for base camp. Mirza,
Malgosia and Samina went faster so all caught up later at base camp with joy. Nice
fried meat and french fries welcomed the climbers back. The sheep was brought and
cut to celebrate the success. The team then moved back to Shimshal after two days.
Samina’s family was so happy and came to greet her with lots of congratulations.
After the summit, the team decided to name the mountain local name – Kohi Brobar (Mount Equality). The base camp was named Samina Camp and the ice arena that Chris liked will now be called the Samina Arena. The final step of the mountain is named the Mirza Step, the crevasse Chris fell into has been named German Fall and the route has been named the Malgosia Route since it was her first 6000m summit.
Mr. Franke had a GPS unit that showed the mountain’s height is 6008m. The climbers
started at 3:30 AM from high camp, the foot of the mountain at 4:00 AM, and reached
summit at 11:00 AM. The German Fall happened at 12:35 PM and the team arrived back
at high camp at 1:30 PM. It took approximately 10 hou
rs for the full climb and return.
The summit view was incredible as all the high mountains were visible including
Batura I & II, Shispar Peak, Ultar Peak, Lopghar Sar, Momhale Sar, Traver Sar, Dastaghir,
Kanjut Sar, White Horn Shimshal, Yazghail Sar, Yazghail Dom, East, Yukshin Garden
and the massive K2. There were also a huge number of mountains up to 6000m yet to
be climbed and named.
The expedition was very much successful however deep and soft snow due to the warmest temperature in the Karakorum in 20 years made the climb much harder. The Swedish climber Fredrik Sträng says in his post from Nanga Parbat, "Warmest temperatures in 20 years". Here is what Sträng stated: "Nanga Parbat is over. In Camp 2 (6200m), I decided to turn back. Constant bad weather (permanent avalanche danger) for 1 1/2 months, winds, snow, lightning, and extremely dangerous rock fall due to the warmest weather in 20 years makes such a decision easy.” We were lucky to be able to get to the summit of the unclimbed, unnamed peak which is now known as Kohi Brobar, Mt Equality.
Samina hopes to continue climbing and to reach the summits of Mt Everest and K2 as more technical skills are gained along with support and sponsors.
Special thanks to Chris, Jens, Malgosia, and the entire team of porters, cooks, Arshad, and of course, Miss Donkey, for making the expedition wonderful!